The power of plants, magical nights, and a city of the future.
. . .
Singapore
4 min read
After a 10-hour flight from Christchurch, I finally arrived in small yet mighty Singapore, and honestly, I felt like I’d stepped into the future. Roughly the size of London (but a million times cleaner), Singapore has a reputation for being one of the cleanest cities in the world, both in air quality and waste management. The city is built on sustainability, with green buildings draped in emerald foliage, an urban forest stitched into steel and glass. As I gazed out of the taxi window, mesmerised by the vibrancy, I naturally fell in love with the place.
Despite the famously strict, almost draconian laws, there was something surreal about Singapore, and I felt like I’d landed on another planet. I was only here for five nights, but my goodness, did the place make an impression on me.
The Lion City of Many Voices
Singapura is the Malay name for Singapore, derived from Sanskrit. According to the Malay’s, a Sri Vijayan prince arrived in Temasek, spotted a lion, and renamed the place Singapura, the Lion City. Before that, it was Temasek, meaning ‘sea town’, a name that leaned into the island’s coastal identity. Centuries later, Singapore became a trading port under British colonialism, merging the city into a global crossroads of commerce. During the Second World War, it was occupied by Japan, before it eventually moved toward self-governance and, later, independence.
Today, Singapore is often called a cultural melting pot and I could see why. Walking around, I was amazed by how many languages were spoken here and the multilingual signage. Malay, Mandarin Chinese, Tamil, and English, sometimes all on the same sign. Multiple cultures coexist, each retaining their unique traditions. It was clear that Singapore is a city that appears both futuristic and deeply rooted in history.
Humidity Adjustment and the Bum Gun
My first morning began with a savoury breakfast of nasi lemak – rice, egg, chicken, peanuts, cucumber, and crunchy anchovies. It was delicious, except for the anchovies…not a huge fan! The dish originated as a high-energy breakfast for farmers and fishermen, dating back to the late 19th – early 20th century.
The sheer humidity was initially an experience, especially for my poor stomach. I learned the hard way that public restrooms don’t provide toilet paper. Instead, I was introduced to the infamous water spray, also known as the ‘bum gun.’ Initial reaction: absolute horror, no clue what it was for. A few days later: full convert! Southeast Asia has definitely changed me.
Parks, Trains, and a Charcoal Burger
Fort Canning Park was my first proper wander, a hilltop oasis in the middle of the city. Singapore itself felt otherworldly, and I hadn’t even scratched the surface yet. I sorted out a transport card and wholeheartedly fell in love with the underground system. It was fast, efficient, super easy to navigate, and very well air-conditioned. A sweet escape from the sweltering heat above.
That first evening, exhaustion had won and I ordered a McDonald’s. The burger bun was charcoal-black, filled with chicken, cabbage, and satay sauce. Hands down the most interesting McDonald’s burger I’ve ever eaten, even the fast food was something else.
The Magic of Gardens by the Bay
Of course I went to Gardens by the Bay almost immediately, it was an absolute bucket list moment and the child in me was bouncing. The bay contains over 1.5 million plants; a vibrant display of horticultural artistry. The Supertrees were enormous and absolutely mesmerising. The Avatar Experience, located inside one of the domes, felt surreal. The cloud forest was lush, spellbinding, and visually impressive, I couldn’t believe how big the dome was.
I went back in the evening for the Supertree light show, and my goodness, the trees turned into these glowing, chromatic towers of colour and music. My head was spinning from trying to catch it all. After that, I watched the Marina Bay Sands light show, it was so beautiful. An elegant display of light and smoke, with visceral violins and piano symphonies.
Then, as I was making my way back to the hotel, I stumbled upon a K-pop dance group lighting up the square outside Marina Sands. Singapore was so alive at night, there was always something happening, and I looked forward to every evening venture.
Orchid Beauties, River Lights, and a Walk Through the Past
The next day, I visited the Botanical Gardens and the famous National Orchid Garden, a stunning haven filled with over 1,000 species of orchids. Orchids are one of my favourite flowers and I got completely lost, it was such a wonderful display.
That evening, I went on a scenic river cruise (it was gorgeous minus all the mosquito bites) and watched the city shimmer in a soft, twilight glow. I loved the city at night.
Later on, I joined an immersive audio walking tour called New World’s End in Little India, alongside two Korean travellers. We were given a special map and headphones that guided us through the Jalan Besar area while listening to a story about Singapore in the 1960s – the glamour, and the forgotten, hidden sides of its past.
The streets of Little India were jam-packed due to local political unrest, and staff warned us to be careful. We navigated through the bustle and the whole experience was very cool and unlike anything I’d ever done before.
Sentosa Island and Nerd Heaven
The following day, I made my way to Sentosa Island. I took the scenic cable car south and absolutely had to visit Madame Tussauds. The humidity on the island was so intense I thought I was going to melt into a driveling puddle – thank god for A.C. The museum was so much fun and I had a ridiculous blast entertaining myself taking photos with E.T., Harry Styles, Audrey Hepburn etc.
Afterwards, I went back to Marina Bay Sands and visited the ArtScience Museum. A visceral, mind-bending, gorgeous love letter to art, technology, science, and culture. I was in nerd heaven, and felt very at home to say the least. I was in here for god knows how long, it was mind-blowing, and I especially loved the mirrored lights display.
A Day at the Airport
A day in Jewel Changi airport was definitely a day well spent. If you know you know! It’s one of the highest rated airports in the world. The train ride from the city took about 30 minutes, and the moment I arrived, I was glued to the Rain Vortex waterfall, waiting for it to roar to life.
The whole place was bursting with plants and light and space. I wandered everywhere, got lost multiple times, accidentally ended up in a small maze, and walked across a netted canopy suspended above the airport…where I tried very hard not to look down at all the levels of escalators and the sheer height of it all.
I visited the butterfly sanctuary, saw chrysalis cocoons (the most important stage of a butterfly’s transformation), and tried my first Japanese rice burger. Which I ended up making a complete, decapitating mess of…before realising there was a special way to eat them still neatly contained within the paper wrap. Oopsie…
Suburbs and Shophouses
On my final full day, I explored some of Singapore’s most iconic neighbourhoods. I loved Little India. It was so vibrant and full of colour, street art, temples, and aromatic spice shops. Chinatown was a beautiful mix of red lanterns and bustling market stalls. Kampong Glam and Arab Street were packed with textile shops, mosques, and the smell of fragrant Middle Eastern food.
And then there were the Peranakan Houses in Katong. These pastel-coloured, antique beauties were built by the descendants of Chinese immigrants from the 15th-16th centuries. They felt like little time capsules, quietly expressing Singapore’s layered history.
Magical Nights and a Full Heart
Evenings in Singapore were such magic, I was going to miss this. It was very safe, and I had made sure to avoid the ‘unsafe’ suburbs that I researched before coming. During my last evening, I revisited the bustling local street food market for dinner, then went back to the glowing Supertree grove for one last time, and afterwards meandered around the marina, moving slowly in the shimmering humidity.
I watched the city lights spill across the bay, ships drifted past, music floated through the air, and I felt the vibrant city hum all around me. Everything was so alive. Singapore was so beautiful, and this trip had replenished a small, big part of me.
The Suitcase Backpacker 