The Suitcase Backpacker

Aotearoa New Zealand

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Second & third week campervanning itinerary:

Spring Creek – Picton – Nelson – Abel Tasman – Punakaiki – Hokitika – Franz Josef – Wanaka – Lake Tekapo – Queenstown

5 min read

We had finally reached the tip of the beautiful South Island, surrounded by scenic mountains and rows of emerald trees. The drives would be longer compared to the smaller North Island, but with hardly any traffic and jaw-dropping views at nearly every turn, I certainly wasn’t complaining.

Spring Creek: A Warm Welcome to the South Island

Our adventure began at Spring Creek, near Blenheim. The campsite was simple but charming, much like the chatty Kiwi man we met there. He was full of tips and stories, giving us a taste of that legendary New Zealand hospitality. The relaxed vibes and musical sounds of nature set the tone for the days to come.

Peanut Butter Dreams and Coastal Treks

Next stop: Nelson (Whakatū), where we visited Pic’s Peanut Butter World. As a self-proclaimed peanut butter addict, this was heaven in a jar. Unfortunately I didn’t get to watch the magic happen behind the scenes due to our late afternoon arrival and missing the last tour. I did, however, manage to sample some delicious peanut butter and honey products in the gift shop. 

From Nelson, we headed to the stunning Abel Tasman National Park. Armed with my trusty Gandalf stick (yes, I found a stick, and yes, it was epic), we trekked through a golden beach and a lot of dense bush. Despite how exhausted I was, being immersed in nature felt rejuvenating (okay maybe a few days after once I’d recovered from what seemed to be the longest hike ever) and I soaked up every bit of the experience.

The Rainy West Coast: Punakaiki Antics

The West Coast (Te Tai Poutini) greeted us with its signature moodiness: lashing rain and heavy fog. After arriving in Punakaiki and parking up, navigating the campsite in the dark was a nightmare for me. I wandered around in circles trying to find the kitchen, and then wandered around again in the rain trying to get back to the van. Thank god I stumbled into Alison, who was equally lost, and eventually we found the van absolutely drenched in clumsy laughter. The relentless rain brought a slight cabin fever vibe to the first night, but I loved hearing the ocean thundering away behind the darkness. 

On a brighter note, I managed to sort out a major issue with my NZ bank account—a win in the middle of all the chaos. Once the rain finally stopped the following day (thank god, as I was beginning to worry we’d have to get on Noah’s Ark to leave the place) we were treated to a fiery sunset painted across the beach. Watching the sky transform while the waves crashed and swirled before me made every storm, sandfly, and mosquito bite (and there were many) so worth it. My ankles seemed to be collecting bites and the itchiness was driving me mad, especially during the night. I suppose things could have been worse, at least I hadn’t been bitten on my arse like Alison had, hehe.

Hokitika and Ross Beach: A Breather on the Road

Passing through Hokitika, we stocked up on essentials (and by essentials, I mean Jaffa Cakes and a holistic bug soother spray) before settling at Ross Beach. This campsite was a breath of fresh air after the rainy chaos of Punakaiki. With fewer mozzies to torment us and the ocean just steps away, it was the perfect pit stop before heading deeper into the South Island.

Franz Josef: Kiwi Birds, Glaciers, and Aviation Close Calls

Whilst driving to Franz Josef, we crashed into an unexpected encounter, quite literally. A bird smashed into the windscreen whilst Lachlan was driving, and scared the absolute shit out of me, leaving behind mangled feathers stuck to the glass. We had no idea if it survived the air crash, poor thing. Not long after, a beautiful ombre butterfly smacked into the windscreen, and an aviation graveyard was beginning to form.

Once in Franz Josef, we visited the conservation centre and saw two adult kiwi birds, such cute fluff-balls with their long snouts snuffling through the earth. I then warmed up with a chai latte and my packed lunch at the cafe whilst Lachlan and Alison did their own thing too. Later on, I discovered a short walking trail with rows of trees everywhere and lush vegetation, it felt like a fairytale forest. A New Zealand fantail bird followed me for part of the walk, and they have now become my favourite bird here, with their cheerful tweeting and friendly nature. 

Franz Josef is famous for its glaciers and heli-hikes, however, I mostly opted for a keep-my-feet-on-the-ground kind of day, so I tried my hand at pounamu (greenstone) carving and created my own necklace. In Maori culture pounamu should only be gifted, it’s not really customary to give it to yourself. However, I appreciated this magical experience learning from the artist, and reconnecting with my long forgotten art skills, it felt very special.

Wanaka Bound: Reflections, Poems, and Autumn Colors

Whilst on our way to Wanaka, we stopped at Lake Matheson (Te Ara Kairaumati), renowned for its stunning reflections. A beautiful poem that was by the lake, Place by Brian Turner, perfectly captured the serenity of the moment as I stood gazing at the mirrored perfection. The lakes in the Otago region are breathtaking—we also visited the Blue Pools, Thunder Falls, and several other picturesque spots along the way.

Wanaka itself was a sweet little town, rustic, and blooming with autumn colours. We made sure to visit the famous Wanaka Tree, standing solitary in the lake, surrounded by golden hues. It was every bit as photogenic as I imagined it would be. Swarms of tourists would surround the area trying to get the best shots.

Clay Cliffs and Stargazing: Omarama and Lake Tekapo

Whilst on our way to Omarama, we stopped at the clay cliffs, where Alison tackled a 4 km stretch of unpaved, off-road driving to get us there. The colossal formations were definitely worth the wild ride, their rugged beauty etched by time.

Our next stop was Lake Tekapo, a serene place to recharge. I spent a peaceful afternoon soaking up the autumn sunlight by the lake. Whilst on my way back to the campsite, I spotted a cute baby bunny rabbit hopping along the path—a small but delightful moment. That night, I went on a small stargazing tour inside of a giant crater. Despite the partial cloud cover, the experience was pretty magical, and the telescopes revealed a sharp and crisp view of the moon’s surface, along with Alpha Centauri, the Southern Cross, and glittering globular clusters.

Queenstown: A Grand Finale

Our final stop was Queenstown, where we wrapped up our South Island campervan adventure. This vibrant town, surrounded by mountains and lakes, endless activities, and breathtaking views, was the perfect place to end our camper trip. 

Van life, however, wasn’t always like a dreamy Pinterest post. There were cold nights with my hairdryer as a heater, moments when we nearly headed to the pub in our PJs, and days when the latest episode of The Mandalorian felt like a highlight. But there’s always beauty in the simplicity—falling asleep to the sound of the ocean, waking up to a new view every day, and sharing laughs over the absurdities of life on the road. For me, it’s definitely more about the journey than any destination we may have in mind. Winding roads framed by majestic mountains, lush forests, and the occasional mirrored lake reflecting it all back at you. Beautiful.